Hiroshima

It’s sad, but it’s better to say it straight away: it’s impossible to think of Hiroshima without thinking of the atomic bombing in August 1945. Like its twin, Nagasaki, the city has taken its place in history. In its centre, there is a museum and a peace memorial, but also a building that was hit by the bomb: burnt, partially collapsed, skeletal but still standing.

But Hiroshima is much more than a bomb site. It’s a city by the sea, dense, quiet and green, surrounded by wild paths. And, of course, the food and drink are superb.

The origins of Ginjo sake

Hiroshima is best known for its sake. For a long time, the water from its natural springs was considered too low in minerals to produce sakes that could compete with the finest vintages from Kyoto or Hyogo (although brewers have been working in the city since the 16th century). At the end of the 19th century, however, a master brewer called Miura Senzaburo discovered that these supposedly too-soft waters produced magnificent sakes when used as the basis for long, cold fermentations. A few years later, Hiroshima sakes were the most popular in Japan.

Today, the city’s brewers claim that Miura Senzaburo’s sakes were the very first Ginjo in history. This fruity, floral style, which has been popular in Japan and around the world since the 1980s, is the result of a long, cold fermentation. It’s a safe bet that the brewers of Kyoto and Hyogo are ready to dispute paternity.

Hiroshima has another strong contender in the good stuff category: Osaka. Both cities are famous for their okonomiyaki, a kind of cabbage and octopus pancake generously slathered in barbecue sauce and mayonnaise (the description doesn’t sound right, but it’s excellent). But whereas Osaka mixes all the ingredients together, Hiroshima arranges them in successive layers, sometimes topped with noodles. Obviously, each of these cities considers its version to be the best. In Umai, we like them both…